Evenings at Partisan:
We are open on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. Our menu changes slightly every week. It is small, fresh and seasonal and with a good selection of Vegetarian and Vegan options. Booking is not essential but recommended. We are fully licensed and have well balanced wine list.
"What a thrill then to hit on somewhere to genuinely enthuse about, a spirited, individual and distinctive neighbourhood restaurant that understands food, knows what goes with what and creates a menu that makes you want to eat the lot" - The Yorkshire Post
Review from Leeds Confidential August 2019
Partisan is also very York. The eclectic café and art house selling antique furniture, Monmouth Coffee and the giant Haxby Bakehouse loaves stacked up in the window, its charm is infiltrating. One glimpse of the teal exterior makes me want to wear socks and sandals and homemade earrings and read French literature in the bathtub.
French cafe chic at Partisan
Set up by husband-and-wife Hugo Hildyard and Florencia Clifford in 2016, Partisan caters largely to the vegan brunch and cake crowd, only offering evening meals Thursday to Saturday. Florencia practises Zen cooking, a meditative art focusing on beauty and seasonality, evident as soon as you step through the doorway. During the day, the weathered wooden countertop is laden with rose-scattered sticky buns dribbled with icing, thin fruit-layered polenta slices and fat wild garlic scones. On a night, candles flicker down the long room, every table overflowing with wild flowers. It’s romantic, and the waiters seem to waltz about the diners busy in animated conversation over wine.
Perfect for a romantic dinner à deux
Feeling bohemian, we order a bottle of Prosecco, (£20) which comes in a huge ice bucket, swathed in a navy linen napkin. Above us, a tri-part walnut overmantel mirror reflects the marine canvasses balancing on the dado rail opposite. Artists are on a three-monthly rotation, with artwork (and, in fact, every vintage ornament and piece in the place, including the chairs you’re sat on) for sale.
Burratina with homegrown salad (£9)
Homemade Haxby sourdough with z'atar (£3.50)
Just as much love has gone in to selecting the local produce for the menu, the majority of which comes from Florencia and Hugo’s Stamford Bridge smallholding. Our starter (£9) of fresh salad leaves, mottled heritage tomatoes, huge capers and gordal olives, slicked with zesty olive oil, would be divine eaten on an allotment deck chair at sunset. Nestled on top, the firm goats cheese-like marinated burratina crumbles on to our Haxby sourdough, served with a mini ramekin of z'atar (£3.50).
Roasted Vadouvan-spiced cauliflower (£17)
Stone bass, seeds and sorrel (£19)
Roasted Vadouvan-spiced cauliflower (£17) is charred and chewy in all the right places, with salty curling leaves and crunchy little morsels of toasted freekeh. Underneath, a cashew sauce is rounded and rich, the black plate sprinkled with a sweet coconut dukkah complimenting the brassica’s nuttiness. Stone bass (£19) is cooked wonderfully, its veiny flakes separating over a pumpkin seed gremolata infused with sorrel, which I suspect is also from the garden. The dishes are light, simple and beyond flavourful, but we regret not ordering one of the Ottolenghi-esque sides of fried organic Alouette potatoes or hispi cabbage with whipped Botton Creamery quark.
To finish there’s an option of cakes from the counter or a super-sounding Montgomery Cheddar, quince and biscuits plate. We choose vegan apricot and summer berry crumble, which comes in a long red-handled skillet, and chilled custard (£7). The crumb is so tiny it’s potentially cough inducing, probably down to the lack of cementing butter. My Earl Grey prune and marmalade frangipane (£6.50) is on the most linear sliver of pastry, tickled with rosemary and hugged with snow white mascarpone.
Looking to celebrate a milestone or simply show a friend how much you care, Partisan is an elegant, creative little cafe worth knowing about.
Partisan, 112 Micklegate, York, YO1 6JX
If you like what we do and would like a private party, a bespoke event or a large table booking please do not hesitate to contact us.